21 October 2016

Bogotá - Villa de Leyva - Bogotá


Salimos del apartamento de mis papás el jueves 08-sep-16. Empezamos el recorrido súper tarde como a las 14:00 horas, ya que la noche anterior nos la habíamos pasado decidiendo si era necesario ir a USA por una semana.

Yo soy la que ha planeado todas las rutas, y como Andrew quiere trochas he venido siendo muy selectiva en la elaboración del recorrido. Escogí salir por la Autopista Norte a Suesca para luego pasar por Cucunubá, Lenguazaque, Guachetá, Ráquira y finalmente Villa de Leyva.

A mí siempre me ha gustado Boyacá y no sé por qué no le había hablado mucho sobre ese departamento a Andrew, pero durante la ruta él pudo darse cuenta por sí mismo de la belleza de esa tierra.

We left my parents apartment in Bogota on Thursday September 8th.  We started very late in the day at 14:00 as we had been up late the previous night deciding if we would return to the USA for a week to sort out some immigration issues.

I am the one that has planned the routes and as Andrew wants unpaved roads I have been very selective with the planning.  I chose to leave Bogota by the Autopista Norte to Suesca in order to later pass through Cucunubá, Lenguazaque, Guachetá, Ráquira and finally Villa de Leyva.

I have always liked Boyacá and I don´t know why I hadn´t talked about this department with Andrew and during the route he came to the same conclusion (that he liked Boyacá a lot).  
Montañas en Boyacá



Tal vez cerca a Cucunubá

Entre Lenguazaque y Guachetá empezó a caer la tarde y como en ese momento aún no sabíamos manejar muy bien el GPS, nos perdimos. Estábamos en plena trocha y en la oscuridad, pero era una trocha entre veredas así que veíamos las casitas a lo lejos o al lado del camino, muchos perros y otros motociclistas.

Between Lenguazaque and Guachetá night started to fall and as we were still figuring out how to use the new GPS, we got lost.  We were on a gravel road in the dark on our first night of the trip but were between small villages and could see some houses beside the road, lots of dogs, and a few other motorcyclists.


Las luces LED que instalamos en las motos so maravillosas

Pasamos Guachetá entre trochas y como a las 20:40 horas empezamos a ver a las luces de Ráquira. A los 20 minutos ya estábamos en el pueblo y decidimos quedarnos a dormir allí. Preguntamos por un hotel con parqueadero o donde pudiéramos dejar las motos bajo llave. Nos instalamos en la Hostelería La Candelaria, salimos a comer y luego a la habitación a dormir.

Al día siguiente despertamos en un pueblo lleno de colores, con una plaza central con estatuas de barro y muchas gente curiosa (siempre hay mucha gente curiosa :)).

We passed by Guachetá on gravel roads without entering the town at at 20:40 we started to see the lights of Ráquira.  Twenty minutes later we were in the town and decided to spend the night there.  We found a room at Hostelería La Candelaria and grabbed dinner and then went to sleep.

The next day we awoke to a town full of colors, with a central plaza full of pottery sculptures and many interesting people (there are always interesting people).
Iglesia de Ráquira


Plaza Central en Ráquira

Plaza Central en Ráquira

Tomando tinto en Ráquira

Ráquira y sus colores

¿Sí serán wayúu esas mochilas?

Una de las mejores cosas en Boyacá ¡RUANAS!

Pan típico Raquireño


Una más de Ráquira

Seguimos nuestro camino, una trocha que encontré en Google Maps y que por casualidad nos llevó al Patio de las Brujas. Tuvimos una vista espectacular desde allí. El sitio se conoce desde hace mucho tiempo como el lugar donde las brujas celebraban sus aquelarres.

We followed our route, a dirt road that we had found on Google Maps and by chance it brought us to Patio de las Brujas (witches´s patio).  We had a spectacular view from there.  This site has been known for a long time as the place where witches covens meet.
Hacia Patio de las Brujas

Hacia Patio de las Brujas

Patio de las Brujas

Patio de las Brujas

Patio de las Brujas

Patio de las Brujas

Patio de las Brujas

Patio de las Brujas

Sólo quedaban 17 kilómetros de camino para llegar a Villa de Leyva, pero a partir del Patio de Brujas la trocha a mi parecer y experiencia había empeorado. Esos 17 kilómetros nos tomaron 2 horas. Yo me caía cada vez que me asustaba, pues lo que hacía era parar completamente y la mayoría de veces era en bajada, en ese momento perdía el equilibrio y Pikachu para el suelo. Lloraba y sudaba del miedo incontrolablemente. Hiperventilaba con cada metro de la trocha, creo que tenía un ataque de nervios. Andrew me ayudaba cada vez, algunas veces me explicaba como pasar los puntos que yo consideraba críticos y en otros simplemente él pasaba a Pikachu porque mi miedo me declaraba impedida para actuar.


There were only 17 kilometers left to arrive at Villa de Leyva, but from the Patio de Brujas the road turned into a really rough trail.  Those 17 km took us 2 hours.  I fell every time that I got scared as I tried to stop completely and the majority of the times it was on a downhill section and I would lose my balance and Pikachu went to the ground.  I cried and sweated from uncontrollable fear.  

Andrew helped me every time  and sometimes explained how to pass the difficult parts while other times he just rode both bikes through the parts where my fear was too strong for me to overcome.  

Hmmm... Esta trocha me angustió mucho

Ahora que veo esta foto la trocha no parecía tan amenazadora como la veía mi mente

Mi cara cuando terminé la trocha. Andrew quería una foto de mí besando el pavimento, pero tampoco ¡eh! tampoco

Al fin salimos de la trocha y llegamos a Villa de Leyva. El adoquinado de las calles en los pueblos siempre me ha parecido encantador, pero yo con mis nervios alterados deteste el adoquinado; me hacía sentir de nuevo en la trocha.

Queríamos acampar, así que le preguntamos a la gente qué hotel u hostal ofrecía área de Camping. Nos recomendaron El Molino del Balcón, nos dirigimos hacia allá y nos encontramos con una antigua casa-molino de la época de la colonia con grandes espacios verdes para acampar y un hermoso riachuelo que cruzaba toda la propiedad y que era el que se usaba para mover los tres molinos de la casa.

Finally we finished the dirt road and arrived at Villa de Leyva.  The cobblestone streets have always seemed very beautiful to me but since I was still nervous from before I now hate cobblestones and they are just like another rough trail.

We wanted to camp so we asked around for a hotel or hostal with camping and were recommended El Molino del Balcón.  We went there and found an old colonial era house with a mill with huge lawns to camp on and a stream that went through the property and used to power the mills.
El Molino del Balcón

El Molino del Balcón

El Molino del Balcón

El Molino del Balcón

El Molino del Balcón


Había una mini mula en la propiedad. Parece ser que la usan para procesiones. Andrew cree que está hecha de un Nissan Patrol o algo así

El Molino del Balcón

El Molino del Balcón


En la propiedad habían muchas animales, entre ellos como 8 perros

Los molinos no funcionan hace más de 80 años, pero se ha conservado la estructura y ahora se ha adecuado para acampar y hacer asados. Al parecer en esta propiedad se han filmado varias producciones de televisión, lo cual no me sorprende.

El resto del día lo dedicamos a instalar la carpa, conocer el pueblo (yo ya lo conocía, pero no Andrew), comer y tomar una que otra cerveza en la Plaza Central.

The mills haven´t worked in more than 80 years, but they have maintained the structure and now make money by offering camping and events.  Apparently they have also filmed some TV shows there which did not surprise me.

We spent the rest of the day setting up camp, wandering around town (I had been here before but Andrew hadn´t), and eating dinner and having some beers in the central plaza.  


El sábado 10-sep-16 era día de Plaza de Mercado así que fuimos a desayunar allá. Disfrutamos de un rico caldo, chocolate y huevos. De ahí salimos para la panadería francesa a tomarnos un tinto mientras adelantábamos nuestros diarios. En la tarde decidimos tomar las motos y explorar un poco los alrededores de Villa de Leyva. Ya en la noche comimos y luego de nuevo a la Plaza Central, pero esta vez nos tomamos unas aromáticas.

Saturday September 10th was market day so we went to the market plaza for breakfast.  We had a delicious soup, hot chocolate, and eggs.  From there we went to the French bakery to have a coffee while working on our journals.  In the afternoon we took the bikes and explored the surroundings of Villa de Leyva.  In the evening we had dinner and returned to the plaza for some people watching and tea.  

Desayunando en la Plaza de Mercado


Puesto de comida en la Plaza de Mercado


Whisky, uno de los perros del Molino del Balcón nos acompañó a la Plaza de Mercado y a la panadería francesa

Plaza de Mercado


Recorriendo los alrededores de Villa de Leyva


Recorriendo los alrededores de Villa de Leyva

Como decidimos ir a USA por una semana, el domingo 11-sep-16 nos devolvimos para Bogotá. Queríamos hacer el recorrido en un sólo día, así que salimos de Villa de Leyva hacia Samacá, en donde tomamos la doble calzada que conecta a Tunja y Bogotá. Paramos en el Puente de Boyacá y nos tomamos un tinto. Llegamos al apartamento de mis papás en Bogotá como a las 17:00 horas.

As we had to go back to the USA for a week, on Sunday September 11th we returned to Bogota.  We wanted to make it back in one day so departed Villa de Leyva in the direction of Samacá and took the dual lane highway that connects Tunja and Bogotá.  We stopped at Puente de Boyacá for a coffee and some history and made it back to Bogotá at 17:00.  

Hacia Bogotá


Puente de Boyacá

Puente de Boyacá


Puente de Boyacá

Carolina

06 September 2016

Our Little Horses - Nuestros Caballitos

Pikachu


Pikachu es una Suzuki DR-X de 200 c.c. modelo 2017.

En Colombia son bien conocidas las Suzuki DR200 (las usa hasta la policía) pero casi nadie conoce la DR-X (sí señor(a) así nomás, sin el 200). Mejor dicho son la misma vaina, pero Pikachu tiene unos plásticos que la hace ver más bonita. Parece ser que desde el 2015 han venido vendiendo la DR-X como una nueva versión de la DR200.

Pikachu DR-X 200 cc

DRX de la policía en Bogotá
Comparando la información que hay en internet, parece que se perdieron 0.5L de capacidad con los nuevos plásticos (Pikachu tiene de capacidad 12.5L y una DR200 tiene 13L). Todos los demás parámetros parecen ser los mismos.

¿Qué le agregamos a Pikachu? Dos Exploradoras LED, puños calefactables, dos puertos USB para cargar dispositivos, un indicador de batería, un cable de conexión permanente para la batería (el cual nos permite cargar la batería sin tener que desmontarla de la moto), una pequeña caja de fusibles con un pequeño relé, una montura para montar la cámara fotográfica o el celular, las alforjas (las alforjas de Carolina no necesitan porta alforjas), una parrilla para cargar una maleta, defensas de motor, cubremanos, una pequeña maleta en el guardabarros delantero para almacenar un neumático y una caja de aluminio para almacenar cosas varias.

Exploradoras LED - LED Lights

Interruptor de las exploradores LED - LED Light's switch

Puertos USB e indicador de batería - USB Outlets and battery gauge

Cable de conexión permanente para la batería - Battery tender connector

Pequeña caja de fusibles con un pequeño relé - Wiring harness (http://www.easternbeaver.com/3cs-900.JPG)

Montura - Mount

Alforjas - Panniers

Alforjas - Panniers

Alforjas - Panniers

Parrilla - Rack

Defensas - Engine guard

Cubremanos - Hand guards

Cubremanos - Hand guards

Maleta para el guardabarros - Fender bag

Caja de aluminio - Aluminium box

Caja de aluminio - Aluminium box

¿Por qué Carolina eligió la DRX para hacer el viaje? Porque es un chichón de piso ja, ja, ja. Andrew quería comprar dos motos iguales para llevar menos partes de repuesto durante el viaje, para hacer las mismas modificaciones, para que cuando se dañara una la otra fácilmente sirviera como ejemplo para la reparación, para llevar los mismos manuales, etc. Tenía muchas ventajas, pero el problema radica en que Andrew mide 1,85m y Carolina 1,55m. Básicamente alguno de los dos iba a viajar muy incómodo, así que eligieron que cada uno llevara la moto adecuada a su tamaño y de acuerdo a su experiencia. Carolina se subió a una Honda Tornado 250 (demasiado alta y pesada), a una Honda XR150L (la cual estaba bien para el tamaño pero la DRX parecía mejor máquina), Kawasaki KLX150 y Yamaha XTZ125 (éstas dos últimas muy poco cilindrare y la Kawasaki tiene un tanque muy pequeño). Finalmente Carolina escogió Pikachu, ya que en el concesionario la bajaron 4cm de la horquilla/tijera y dejaron la presión de las llantas a lo mínimo permitido.


Honda Tornado XR-250


Andrew's bike is a 2017 Honda XR-250 Tornado.

I can't seem to find any pictures of it from when I first picked it up so photo from: (http://motos.honda.com.co/todo-terreno/XR-250-tornado)

More common bikes for traveling around South America like the Suzuki DR650, Kawasaki KLR650, and BMWs were excluded due to their weight and price in Colombia.  Used bike were excluded from the search due to the poor condition of most of the used bikes that we found.  Motorcycles are used as a primary means of transport in Colombia so bikes that are only a few years old often have 50-100,000 km on them.  

The XR-250 is relatively common throughout South America and has been in production or a long time so replacements parts are relatively easy to find and mechanics know the bike well.  The bike is manufactured in Manaus, Brazil before being assembled in Cali, Colombia.

The Honda weights 134 kg / 295 lbs dry and produces 23 hp and 24 NM of torque.  It has a decent suspension and adequate brakes, a 6 speed transmission, and a seat height of 845 mm / 33.3 in.





The idea for this trip is to travel as light as possible while still carrying camping gear and supplies to be self-supported for a few days at a time as well as tools and parts to maintain and fix the bike, and clothing for climates ranging from the Carribean coast to the Amazon jungle to the Andes and paramos.  The route will include as many dirt roads and trails as possible making weight, both of the motorcycles and of luggage, a primary concern.  While many people think a 200/250cc motorcycle is too small to travel on it is actually a relatively large motorcycle in South America where the majority of the bikes are 50-180ccs.  People here constantly comment on how large these bikes are where in the USA these are about the smallest street legal bikes that you can get.

Modifications to the Tornado:
With all these goals and limitations in mind I decided on the following luggage solution:
1.  A toolbox permanently mounted to the bike, and lockable, which would allow me to carry the tools necessary for most basic repairs.  I wanted to be able to leave this on the bike so that it would always be there, even when the rest of the luggage is removed for day trips.  Additionally, as tools are heavy, I didn't want them to be part of the weight that I was carrying around by hand every time I took the bags off.  I saw some really good solutions for the Suzuki DR650 and wanted to replicate them.  The Tornado turns out to have less room available for a tool box leading to it being mounted to the pannier racks rather than the bike frame.  The box was fabricated out of aluminum to keep the weight down and fully loaded with tools it weighs 2.55 kg.



2.   A top rack which would support a large dry bag.



3.  side racks to support soft panniers.  Many people use hard cases, which have the advantage of being lockable, but they weigh significantly more and can be a hazard in an accident.

With the goals of the trip in mind we took the Tornado to a fabricator and he built a top and side racks for it out of steel tubing.  In order to accommodate the tool box the side racks stick out a few centimeters from the bike and are located quite far back.  An advantage of this is that it is possible to remove the side panels of the bike to access the battery and air filter without removing the rack.  The down side of this is that the weight is located further back and with the bags on the bike is quite wide, too wide in fact to fit through many doorways. Time will tell if this is enough of a negative to warrant modifying the racks.  Unfortunately I did not weight the rack before it was installed but I estimate that it only weights a few kg.



4.  The Tornado has an 11.5 liter gas tank which gives it a range of about 285 km.  In order to have a longer range an aftermarket 14.5 liter Gilimoto plastic tank was installed which should increase the range to about 360 km.  The original cap that came with the tank leaked terribly but a locking cap that I bought as well is sealing fine.


5.  LED driving lights.  Dual sport motorcycle headlights are terrible.  Really terrible.  If you have never ridden a bike somewhere without streetlights you do not know the terror of only seeing about 2 seconds in front of you at 80 km/hr.  These lights are immensely brighter than the factory headlight but one of the four lights has already failed so we are on the lookout for a replacement.


6.  Heated Grips.  The first thing to get cold on a motorcycle is your hands.  Cold hands are clumsy slow hands which is not a good thing.

Heated grips and controller, as well as switch for the LED lights and Garmin GPS mount 

7.  Skid Plate.  This protects the engine from impacts with rocks/logs/etc.  Ideally it should be smooth so that the bike can ''slide'' over obstacles instead of getting stuck.  This one, designed for the Tornado and made out of 4 mm aluminum plate, does not fit well and needs to be modified when we get to Medellin.


8.  USB outlets.  For charging phone, Kindle, etc.  One 2-amp and 1 1-amp outlet.  Bought these from Amazon and the quality is spotty at best.  One of the USB chargers was dead right out of the box.

9.  Battery Gauge.  I couldn't find the stator specs for either of these bikes online so I wanted to be able to monitor the battery voltage to make sure that we weren't draining it while running all of the aftermarket accessories at the same time.  Doubly good to keep an eye on the battery as neither of these bikes have a kickstarter and push starting a bike in the dirt sucks.  Everything that we are running is relatively low draw and so far it seems like we can have it all on at once with no issues.

Heated grip controller, battery gauge, USB outlets, and second RAM mount  All mounted to the top clamp on a custom steel bracket.

10. Garmin Montana GPS.  Already have a love hate relationship with this thing.  It is not that intuitive to use, but it is weatherproof and lets us plan routes that include tracks and trails while recording all our progress.  We are using open source maps and in rural areas they are lacking.  If you have programmed a route ahead of time and stick to it there is no problem but changes to the route often take you in an illogical direction.

11.  RAM mounts for GPS/Camera/phone.  The GPS mount is hardwired to the Tornado.  So far this has proved to be a great system.  A secondary RAM mount lets me use my phone for directions or mount a camera (though currently the cameras that we are carrying are not tough enough to use while riding so can only be used for stationary shots.


12.  Cycra Hand Guards - These have saved me from countless broken levers over the years  They are also a nice wind break for your hands.



"Final" Product